Weave between the dawdlers along the Saint-Martin canal, cut through Hôpital Saint-Louis, drool over the brightly colored storefronts of the delicatessens on Rue Sainte-Marthe, and then eventually walk across the cobblestones of its eponymous square. We know the way by heart, having been to the Mulino Mulè trattoria many times – one of the best in Paris – but on this particular evening, we were about five steps closer to our final destination, the Ajar restaurant that was recently opened by Ruben Curiel, a journalist by trade and the actor and podcaster Sophie-Marie Larrouy.
There is an equally impressive cast in the kitchen, where the chefs Camille Bacou and Cassandre Beguin Billecocq work in tandem. With degrees in art history and psychology respectively, the two young women – in their 50s – cut their eyeteeth in some fine bistros – such as Bien élevé for Bacou and Ploc for Beguin – before taking up their very first role as chefs in Ajar at the beginning of 2025.
On the menu of this upcycled bar, lined with metal shelves bright with flowers, antique utensils and bottles of natural wine, is "modern cuisine with traditional inspiration," said Camille Bacou. But perhaps it's more a case of "traditional cuisine with a modern twist," her partner said.
After some lighthearted banter on the subject, the chefs agreed to forget the labels and let the appetizer dishes do the talking: A slice of pork and smoked eel pâté en croûte; panisses languishing on a sorrel sauce and topped with a sprinkling of grated Parmesan; a vol-au-vent garnished with Jerusalem artichokes, bergamot, goat's cheese and verbena, to mention just a few.
But it's the dish of artichokes à la barigoule that is seriously mouthwatering. Cooked in a broth of carrots, onions, and white wine in rural Provencal tradition, you first get the heartening flavors of the artichoke poivrade (pepper sauce) that comes with an awesome oyster mayonnaise that is both rich and refreshing.
Bits of crispy serrano ham were added here and there for texture. "A nod to the original recipe, which normally calls for bacon," Beguin Billecocq said. With a distinct taste of the sea, the smooth flesh of an inflorescence vegetable and the crunch of the Serrano ham, each mouthful, offers its share of surprises, depending on where your cutlery takes you first.
Another surprise was the first sip of a pickle spritz, a cocktail of white vermouth, dill syrup, prosecco and sweet-and-sour pickle brine. But the eye-opener was tasting the young restaurant's star dessert, a curious yet astonishingly pleasant chicken-skin sundae. Finally, the last surprise was discovering that the lunch, formula menu offers two starters, a main course and a dessert all for 25 euros. All the more excellent reasons to tread the cobbles of Place Sainte-Marthe.
Ajar, 34, Rue Sainte-Marthe, Paris 10e. Artichokes barigoule, serrano sauce, oyster mayonnaise: €9. Wednesday to Friday lunch formula: two starters, main course, dessert €25.
Translation of an original article published in French on lemonde.fr; the publisher may only be liable for the French version.