“To succeed as a woman — particularly 30 years ago, when I started — you have to be extremely dedicated to the craft and fight to prove yourself every day,” says Ana María Romero.

In the heart of Mexico’s tequila-producing regions, Romero is now one of the most respected authorities on the spirit. Her dedication to tequila goes beyond creating a pleasurable drinking experience — above all, she aims to preserve and highlight Mexico’s rich heritage while pushing the boundaries of what tequila can be in the modern world.

Interestingly, Romero’s path to becoming the maestra tequilera she is today began with her being a sommelier. “I wanted to bring the world of wine appreciation to Mexico,” Romero explains. The intricate process of winemaking, with its focus on terroir and the complexities of aromas and flavors, captivated her early on. However, it wasn’t long before she realized that her true calling lay not in a far-flung vineyard but in the agave fields of her native Mexico.

The history of agave spirits is deeply ingrained in Mexican culture and dates back to pre-Hispanic civilizations, so it appears that Indigenous people were the first to distill the sugars of the plant to create the now-infamous Mexican drink pulque. Throughout time, different regions of Mexico developed specific traditions for distilling agave spirits, with tequila today being the most popular, but others, such as (what we know as) mezcal, bacanora and raicilla, also have rich histories.

Romero’s shift in focus from wine to tequila, she tells me, was more than just a career pivot; it was a return to her roots. It offered her the chance to combine her love for terroir-driven spirits with a deeper exploration of her heritage. This passion led her to immerse herself in the world of tequila production, conducting extensive research at distilleries across the country to understand the influence of different production methods.

“Every step of the process is vital to developing the final character of the spirit,” she explains, adding: “The agave typically matures for five to seven years before it’s harvested, during which time it is shaped by all the environmental conditions around it.” This long maturation process, which far exceeds the one-year growth cycle of grapes in winemaking, results in tequilas that are profoundly influenced by the region in which they’re produced.

Romero’s fascination with these regional differences is evident in her work with Mijenta Tequila, where she oversees the entire production process. “In the highlands region, where we make Mijenta, you tend to get more fruity notes,” she says, contrasting this with the tequila valley, where the volcanic soil imparts more herbaceous and mineral-driven flavors. For Romero, it’s this regional variation that makes tequila such an exciting spirit to explore — and it mirrors the spirit of the country. “Agave from different regions has such unique flavors — some very subtle, some much more prominent.”

Romero’s deep understanding of tequila’s complexities has not only shaped her approach to production but has also made her a pioneer in tequila education. Drawing inspiration from the wine world, Romero created the first tequila aroma wheel — Google it; it’s now being used all over the world — identifying over 600 scents that can be found in tequila. “As I continued to identify new tasting notes that were possible in tequila, I wanted to group and capture these in order to help others train their palates,” she explains.

This focus on education is a cornerstone of Romero’s work. In her tequila seminars, she emphasizes the importance of training the palate by smelling and tasting real ingredients associated with common tequila notes. “Each participant will have a board that includes items like apple, citrus fruit and cinnamon,” she explains. By directly associating these scents with tequila tasting, Romero helps both novices and connoisseurs better understand the intricate layers of flavor in a well-made tequila.

“Cantaloupe is one that, for instance, I get in Mijenta Blanco tequila, and it is a very delicate note that I love,” she says. “In my view, if you’re drinking tequila, you should always taste agave first, so even when we age in barrels for our reposado,cCristalino or añejo gran reserva, the barrel notes should complement rather than overwhelm the flavors of the tequila itself.”

In her current role, Romero has found a way to marry her passion for tequila with a deep commitment to sustainability. “We take a holistic approach to sustainability and try to have a positive impact across all steps of the process,” she says. This commitment is reflected in every aspect of Mijenta’s production, from the use of recycled glass bottles to identifying agaveros who are committed to the long-term preservation of the species through responsible agricultural practices.

This focus on sustainability is a modern iteration of how Indigenous Mexicans have honored the land for centuries — so it means helping heal the planet, but it’s also a mean to continue that tradition.

The brand’s environmental initiatives extend beyond the bottle. The brand has partnered with the Women’s Earth Alliance (WEA) to support women leaders in Mexico’s agricultural sector, contributing to projects that intersect with environmental protection, women’s rights and Indigenous rights. “It’s incredibly rewarding to be part of something that’s not just making great tequila but also giving back to the community and the environment.”

In a male-dominated industry, Romero’s contributions to the tequila industry have been nothing short of transformative. From her pioneering work in tequila aromas to her leadership in sustainable production practices, she has redefined what it means to be a maestra tequilera in the modern age.

“This has given me the opportunity to develop my own craft, which combines art and science, to bring my own perspective to the heritage of tequila,” Romero says. “There are some producers who still make family recipes that have been passed down for generations, but I created my own.”

This is the type of fresh perspective that women bring into the tequila world. But it’s not enough to have a seat at the table, she reminds me; it’s crucial for women to be in influential leadership roles. Romero’s ultimate goal is simple but profound: to share her love for tequila with the world, ensuring that this iconic Mexican spirit continues to be celebrated and respected for generations to come — and that women are front and center in the process.