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Boston Herald
Boston Herald
9 Sep 2015
Moira McCarthy


NextImg:Come for Vermont’s foliage, stay for the food, outdoor activities

Show almost anyone a photo of lush hills alive with the colors of autumn and they’ll most likely think “Vermont.” After all, the state, with the highest density of maple trees in America, is known for not just its sweet maple syrup, but for the seasonal beauty of the trees that syrup comes from.

But there’s something New Englanders know about Vermont fall foliage that the rest of the world may not have caught on to:

It’s better to visit in the middle of the week.

It’s not that the trees grow more vibrant; those colors are bright every day. It’s not that the vistas expand; the openness of Vermont is always there. It’s just that in the fall, during midweek, there’s a kind of hush that makes it all more special. The midweek surely bustles, but without the major crowds of the weekends. Midweek Vermont foliage time allows you to take it all in with a bit more space, get closer to more attractions and spots, and yes, to soak in even more of the awesomeness that is Vermont during foliage season.

Three-quarters of the state of Vermont is forested, and at a high elevation. Without a lot of development, that gives the trees room to flourish. And since a vast majority of the trees are maples (the kind that love to display color in the fall), the landscape becomes breathtaking, from north to south, as the fall progresses.

And here’s the thing: That beauty, dotted with lakes, rivers, mountain peaks and quaint towns, would be enough. But Vermont as a whole embraces foliage season and makes it a time when everything — from recreational to gastronomical to cultural — is just plain special.

Where and when

Planning a trip at peak color time means going more to the north early in the season, and shifting south as the foliage season progresses (but it’s always pretty everywhere this time of year).

The first vibrant colors appear far into the Northeast Kingdom, a mecca of mountain biking, hiking and more. You can find a nearly endless amount of choices for those activities, from the trails of Jay Peak to the many off-road choices throughout the region.

There are also many small towns and villages tucked into the Northeast Kingdom, and finding them is like a wonderful treasure hunt. And with fall events on the calendar, it’s a perfect time to explore. Midweek, you are bound to be able to chat with locals more, getting a true sense of what their town is all about.

And there’s something else special about a scenic drive in the Northern Kingdom during foliage season: your chances of coming across a moose are good. There’s a big population, and they’re busy grazing before winter sets in. Have your cameras ready.

Of course there are cities to visit as well, and midweek you can slide right into restaurants that may require more of a wait on the weekend. Burlington is alive and busy thanks to colleges, a foodie scene and the amazing experience that is Church Street. And while it does have a semi-urban feel, there are trees on most every street, and the city sidles up to the sparking and beautiful Lake Champlain. And even in that “city,” even walking along a business-lined street, you’ll rarely hear a car horn beep. It’s a kicked-back kind of urban.

In Montpelier you can take in the photo op that is the Vermont State Capitol Building surrounded by incredible foliage, and then meander the streets taking in the music scene, food and more. The Capitol City is worth a visit in itself, with cool and eclectic shopping, a bounty of dining choices and plenty of music.

And then there are, of course, the ski areas, each with its own special vibe and offerings. To the north, Smugglers’ Notch is known as the place for families in the summer and winter; the same goes for foliage time. Hike up past ponds and through trees; try your skills on the ArborTrek Zip Line Canopy Tour featuring eight zip lines, two sky bridges and two rappels; or test your skills on the Treetop Obstacle Course.

Smuggs knows how to throw a party too, and in the fall there are a few to choose from. September events at Smugglers’ include FallFest, Sept. 18-20, highlighting mountain recreation with a disc golf tournament and guided mountain biking and rock climbing sessions. Evening activities during FallFest include a Vermont craft beer and cider tasting and live music. Smugglers’ AppleFest, Sept. 23-30, celebrates Vermont’s apple harvest with complimentary sweet and hard cider tastings, transportation to local orchards for pick-your-own fun, and apple-themed guided walks.

With their heralded kids’ programs in full swing, parents can get time away, and with accommodations to fit any size family, you will feel comfortable and welcome. www.smuggs.com

The ski resorts to the south hold onto foliage colors deeper into the season, and have everything from chairlift rides to hiking to mountain biking. In fact, a great spot for your most “liked” Instagram photo this foliage season may just be at the top of one of those mountains.

Another reason “when” can be answered well with “midweek” is lodging. Vermont, from north to south, is dotted with amazing lodging choices from cabins on lakes to B&Bs to resorts to lovely hotels and more. Since Europeans love flocking here at foliage time, weekends can be busy and require early booking. But since we’re in driving range, we can decide now and zip up there midweek, usually finding excellent lodging choices wherever we want to head.

Fall offerings beyond the trees

This year, the state debuts Vermont Beer Week. Breweries and restaurants throughout the state will be celebrating Vermont craft beers from Sept. 18-27 (yes, it’s more than a week; that’s how Vermont rolls). www.vermontbeerweek.com

Culture is alive and well too. Just beside the Connecticut River in White River Junction, you can visit the Northern Stage. This October it will offer performances of Thornton Wilder’s “Our Town.” Northern Stage is a regional nonprofit professional theater that seeks to entertain, challenge and involve its audiences with ambitious productions and expansive educational programs. Northern Stage brings national and area talent together on an intimate stage in diverse classic, contemporary and new plays and musicals. www.northernstage.org

Dining, of course, is as diverse as the landscape. One great choice is The Red Clover Inn, located just outside of Killington. This quaint, comfortable restaurant gives you the feel of visiting a gourmet-chef friend’s home. The food, locally sourced and based on the season, has racked up accolades: Vermont Chamber of Commerce Restaurateurs of the Year, Wine Spectator’s Award of Excellence (in 2013 and again this year), TripAdvisor’s Certificate of Excellence, and the People’ Choice Award from a Rutland Chamber of Commerce event.

The Red Clover Inn combines foodie passion and culture on Thursdays with its jazz nights featuring live music. And should you choose to stay Thursday night post dinner, your room is $100. www.redcloverinn.com

The Vermont Chamber of Commerce has many suggestions of where to eat, how to drive through the state and, yes, even where the best foliage exists. visitvermont.org